Plzeňská

Brewery Museum & Na Parkánu

April 30th, 2006 at 12:11 am (Plzeň, Other)

Brewery Museum & Na Parkánu

Here’s a distinction I’ve been unable to make.

I obviously visited the museum in 1991 - beer wasn’t my reason for visiting Plzeň but nobody can visit Plzeň without beer having made an impression.

I won’t say that I wasn’t a keen beer drinker. I was. But when I decided to visit Plzeň, when I was on the road, beer didn’t really cross my mind.

Beer, however, has one of its homes in Plzeň and a very important home it is too.

The brewery is mentioned elsewhere. It’s a subject which warrants a complete website. But that’s not why I’m doing this. This section is about my lack of understanding about what has, for me, become an enigma:

The brewery Museum and the pivnice named Na Parkánu.

Photo time:

brewery museum, Plzeň 1991
Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

The above photograph is of what I found in 1991 - I was looking for a pub, a pivnice. I was thirsty! But I can tell you that, although the brewery museum was definately hidden behind these walls, there was no notion of testing the beer it documented (despite the sign “Pivnice”).

For comparison’s sake, I’ll post a recent photo of the same view before returning to my confusion.

brewery museum, Plzeň circa 2004
Brewery Museum, around 2004
Copyright information unknown

There now. There’s no doubting that this is the brewery museum and, looking at the text on the side of the building, I feel safe in believing that the pivnice Na Parkánu is the pivnice my thirst required in 1991.

My problem lies not with what is and what, in 1991, wasn’t. Rather than with what is and what was in 1993 (I, unfortunately have no photographs… )

My memory tells me that, in 1993 a pub - perhaps named Na Parkánu - existed here. But I remember it as a locals place. A place where local guys went for a quiet beer. I don’t remember white paint and I don’t remember crowds of tourists. I do remember a sense of surprise at finding a pub, a pivnice, in that particular corner of the town. I also remember a fantastic atmosphere. The beer was great.

So what happened?

I’ll need your photographs…

brewery museum, Plzeň 2002
Brewery Museum, 2002
Copyright information unknown

Well this photo helps fill the gap - the pivnice sign is still in place, we can see the fresh brickwork at the far end and there certainly seems to be a pub sign hanging from the wall.

This is probably close to the 1993 situation although that extension does look a little too new to have lasted 9 years.

And now that I’ve bored you with my confusion, I’ll continue with my old photos…

brewery museum, Plzeň 1991
Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň - looking Westwards - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

brewery museum, Plzeň 1991
Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň - Pub Sign - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

brewery museum, Plzeň 1991
Brewery Museum Galleries - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

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Moravská Vinárna

April 28th, 2006 at 8:45 pm (Plzeň, Other)

Moravská Vinárna

Moravská Vinárna 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

Perhaps above all other view of Plzeň in 1991, the above view of Bezručova ulice refelcts best the feelings I had of time having stood still. I could compare the above view to that of a 1950s photograph and see very few differences - perhaps some decay but mostly, the two photographs would be similar.

An obvious equivelent, for me, would be France in the 1950s - this view brings to mind 1950s street scenes of France. But this was 1991. How charming it was! Where else could I have had the feeling of living in the epoch of my parents?

It’s a classic view of a classic steet which will never be removed from my mind.

But this is about the Moravská Vinárna (Moravian Wine Bar).

From the minute I entered, I fell in love. The atmosphere was right, the decor was right and they had liver on the menu!

I’d love to have their recipe. I’ve tried to reproduce it on numerous occasions over the past 15 years but I can’t get it right.

I have no idea how many times I ate here, but the liver dish was “off” all but twice. (towards the end they crossed it out in pencil on all menus).

They also had Vavřinecké.

Let’s skip past a few photos before I continue - one or two are quite important!

Moravská Vinárna 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter

In passing, I’ll have to comment that, as seen above, by 1993 Bezručova ulice was no longer a 1950s street… it’s amazing how quickly the decades can pass once the brakes are removed…

Moravská Vinárna 2003
Photograph from the Traveling is Living website

Moravská Vinárna bar
The bar at Moravská Vinárna
Copyright information unknown

The Moravská Vinárna Restaurant
Copyright information unknown

Moravská Vinárna
Bezručova 4
Plzeň 301 13
Czech Republic
Tel: +420 377 237 972

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Perlová Ulice

April 28th, 2006 at 7:45 pm (Plzeň, Other)

Perlová Ulice 4

Perlová Ulice 4 in 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci

Perlová Ulice 4 in 2000s
Perlová Ulice 4 circa 2003
Copyright information unknown

Number 4 Perlová ulice is now the official entry point into Plzeň’s ancient undergound.

Perlová Ulice 8

Perlová Ulice 8 in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter

When I first saw this building I thought it was a pivnice, a pub. From 1991 to 1993, however, it never seemed to be open and I was left wondering. One day in 1993 I was strolling down Perlová ulice and noticed that the door was open. Inside was a stock of beer barrels and a guy was rolling one onto a trolley to deliver, I suppose, to one of the nearby pubs.

The opened door was the one on the right under the Plzeňský Prazdroj sign and the interior didn’t look like it had been a pub for a very long time - if ever.

I still wonder what the purpose of the building was before 1991. It must have been either a pivnice or a beer shop, mustn’t it?

Perlová Ulice 8 in 2003
Photograph © Copyright 2003 epep.cz

Now though, there is no doubt as to the shops use. As can be seen in this photograph which I found at epep.cz. I apologize to the site owner - I couldn’t find a contect address and so am using this photograph without permission…

If anybody has a better photograph or knows more about the history of the place, I’ll be very grateful!

Perlová Ulice 8 - Update

Perlova 8 - information

Well it seems I had the answer to my question amongst my photographs. As can be seen in this image, N° 8 Perlová Ulice was a retail outlet for the brewery museum. A beer shop! I wonder why I never read the sign?

I should thank Eva for this photo - it shows the East side of Perlová ulice looking, perhaps, from a point very near to My House. The view hasn’t changed too much in the past 15 years - the changes aren’t so striking as they are in other areas of the historical centre.

Looking at this photograph, I can imagine strolling along Perlová ulice, making my way towards the brewery museum… I do wish somebody would renovate the tea emporium though - and remove those yellow and green signs! I wonder who owns it… surely they should be persuaded to sell?

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