Malá Ulice
Stará Sladovna - Stredoveká krcma, Malá ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová
I thought I’d start with this photo for no other reason than that looking at it now makes me want to be there. Spring will soon be moving into summer and the fine weather seems at last to have arrived (although I hear the ominous rumbling of thunder in the distance - sent, perhaps, from England to annoy me) and a glass of Pilsner, sitting at one of those benches in the shade would do very nicely indeed.
Malá Ulice in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci
Malá Ulice in the 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci
This second photograph is very interesting as in the courtyard of the brewery museum there is a doorway / portal with a plaque stating that, in 1958, the doorway was moved from house reference number 39 in Malá Ulice.
The plaque in the Brewery Museum
Photograph © Copyright Clive Porter 1991
This would certainly seem to tie in well with George’s photograph. Looking at the next photograph, I’m fairly sure this is the doorway that was moved.
The Doorway / Portal moved from Malá Ulice to the Brewery Museum in 1958
Photograph © Copyright Clive Porter 1991
The University of West Bohemia has this to say about Malá ulice :
The solitary narrow lane on the site of medieval Plzen to be preserved up to the present day (up to the end of the 19th century there was also Katovska Street on the site of today’s General Post Office).
Now, however, it is demolished and the houses with doors on the north side have been knocked down.
According to a Czech dendrology site dendrochronologie.cz, the house previously referenced as numbers 39 and 40 in Plzeň went by the name of Lautensackovský dům - so could George’s photograph show the destruction of Lautensackovský dům? I rather think it does.
See also the Brewery Museum & Na Parkánu article
Drawing of Malá Ulice 1928
Provided by George Krejci
I’d really like to thank George for this one: This is a very interesting drawing of the buildings in question. Here we can see building refernce number 39 in use although it would appear that an upper storey has been removed.
Building reference number 40 is present - in the 1950s photograph, it is missing although the line of its roof can be seen on the adjoining building.
I wonder why these two houses were removed?
Mala ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová
Thanks to Eva for this recent photograph - the view is from the opposite (east) end of the street and the site of the two buildings we’ve been talking about is marked by the brown wooden fencing (seen here on the right).
The building seen on the lefthand side of this photograph is also a very interesting building. This is the Stará Sladovna (the Old Malt House) which is also known as the Středověká Krčma - The Medieval Ale House (or Tavern).
I don’t have any 1990s photographs of this building - nor even this street - but I do seem to remember it. I’m sure it wasn’t open - had it been, I would surely have quenched my thirst there.
The Old Malt House - Medieval Tavern 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová
This is a better view of Stará Sladovna.
Malá ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová
This view of Malá ulice is very similar to the first 1950s photograph.
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Brewery Museum & Na Parkánu
Here’s a distinction I’ve been unable to make.
I obviously visited the museum in 1991 - beer wasn’t my reason for visiting Plzeň but nobody can visit Plzeň without beer having made an impression.
I won’t say that I wasn’t a keen beer drinker. I was. But when I decided to visit Plzeň, when I was on the road, beer didn’t really cross my mind.
Beer, however, has one of its homes in Plzeň and a very important home it is too.
The brewery is mentioned elsewhere. It’s a subject which warrants a complete website. But that’s not why I’m doing this. This section is about my lack of understanding about what has, for me, become an enigma:
The brewery Museum and the pivnice named Na Parkánu.
Photo time:
Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter
The above photograph is of what I found in 1991 - I was looking for a pub, a pivnice. I was thirsty! But I can tell you that, although the brewery museum was definately hidden behind these walls, there was no notion of testing the beer it documented (despite the sign “Pivnice”).
For comparison’s sake, I’ll post a recent photo of the same view before returning to my confusion.
Brewery Museum, around 2004
Copyright information unknown
There now. There’s no doubting that this is the brewery museum and, looking at the text on the side of the building, I feel safe in believing that the pivnice Na Parkánu is the pivnice my thirst required in 1991.
My problem lies not with what is and what, in 1991, wasn’t. Rather than with what is and what was in 1993 (I, unfortunately have no photographs… 
)
My memory tells me that, in 1993 a pub - perhaps named Na Parkánu - existed here. But I remember it as a locals place. A place where local guys went for a quiet beer. I don’t remember white paint and I don’t remember crowds of tourists. I do remember a sense of surprise at finding a pub, a pivnice, in that particular corner of the town. I also remember a fantastic atmosphere. The beer was great.
So what happened?
I’ll need your photographs…
Brewery Museum, 2002
Copyright information unknown
Well this photo helps fill the gap - the pivnice sign is still in place, we can see the fresh brickwork at the far end and there certainly seems to be a pub sign hanging from the wall.
This is probably close to the 1993 situation although that extension does look a little too new to have lasted 9 years.
And now that I’ve bored you with my confusion, I’ll continue with my old photos…
Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň - looking Westwards - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter
Pivnice, Veleslavinova, Plzeň - Pub Sign - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter
Brewery Museum Galleries - 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter
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Identification Requests
I’ve created this page in order to post photographs which I am unable to identify. I hope that somebody will see them, recognise them and leave a comment with any information they have.
Národní Banka?
Národní Banka (I think), Plzeň 1991
I think I’ve identified this building as the Národní Banka, but I have no idea where it is and I don’t know whether it still serves the same purpose. I don’t even know if it still exists.
It’s not a great photo - I think it was taken while crossing the road… that’s not the best way to take photos.
Can anybody help?
Latest Unidentified
Unidentified building & yard, Plzeň
This is a very interesting photograph sent to me by George, but where is this scene?
Identified : it would appear that this is the back yard of number 13 Náměstí Republiky (čp. 106) Chotěšovský dům.
The University of West Bohemia says this :
Chotesov House, ref. no. 106 (13 nam. Republiky), property of the Chotesov monastery from 1487. This original Gothic building was rebuilt in the last quarter of the 16th century, probably by master-builder Jan Merlian.
On the first floor there are Renaissance wallpaintings of the apostles. The rear has an open Renaissance loggia. The building contains the ethnographic section of the West Bohemian Museum.
I wonder if the yard is still accessible…
Unidentified
Unidentified building & street, Plzeň 1940s
Copyright information unknown
Can anybody identify this building and the street name?
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Moravská Vinárna
Moravská Vinárna 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter
Perhaps above all other view of Plzeň in 1991, the above view of Bezručova ulice refelcts best the feelings I had of time having stood still. I could compare the above view to that of a 1950s photograph and see very few differences - perhaps some decay but mostly, the two photographs would be similar.
An obvious equivelent, for me, would be France in the 1950s - this view brings to mind 1950s street scenes of France. But this was 1991. How charming it was! Where else could I have had the feeling of living in the epoch of my parents?
It’s a classic view of a classic steet which will never be removed from my mind.
But this is about the Moravská Vinárna (Moravian Wine Bar).
From the minute I entered, I fell in love. The atmosphere was right, the decor was right and they had liver on the menu!
I’d love to have their recipe. I’ve tried to reproduce it on numerous occasions over the past 15 years but I can’t get it right.
I have no idea how many times I ate here, but the liver dish was “off” all but twice. (towards the end they crossed it out in pencil on all menus).
They also had Vavřinecké.
Let’s skip past a few photos before I continue - one or two are quite important!
Moravská Vinárna 1993
Photograph © Copyright 1993 Clive Porter
In passing, I’ll have to comment that, as seen above, by 1993 Bezručova ulice was no longer a 1950s street… it’s amazing how quickly the decades can pass once the brakes are removed…
Moravská Vinárna 2003
Photograph from the Traveling is Living website
The bar at Moravská Vinárna
Copyright information unknown
The Moravská Vinárna Restaurant
Copyright information unknown
Moravská Vinárna
Bezručova 4
Plzeň 301 13
Czech Republic
Tel: +420 377 237 972
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Perlová Ulice 4
Perlová Ulice 4 in 1950s
Photograph © Copyright George Krejci
Perlová Ulice 4 circa 2003
Copyright information unknown
Number 4 Perlová ulice is now the official entry point into Plzeň’s ancient undergound.
Perlová Ulice 8
Perlová Ulice 8 in 1991
Photograph © Copyright 1991 Clive Porter
When I first saw this building I thought it was a pivnice, a pub. From 1991 to 1993, however, it never seemed to be open and I was left wondering. One day in 1993 I was strolling down Perlová ulice and noticed that the door was open. Inside was a stock of beer barrels and a guy was rolling one onto a trolley to deliver, I suppose, to one of the nearby pubs.
The opened door was the one on the right under the Plzeňský Prazdroj sign and the interior didn’t look like it had been a pub for a very long time - if ever.
I still wonder what the purpose of the building was before 1991. It must have been either a pivnice or a beer shop, mustn’t it?
Perlová Ulice 8 in 2003
Photograph © Copyright 2003 epep.cz
Now though, there is no doubt as to the shops use. As can be seen in this photograph which I found at epep.cz. I apologize to the site owner - I couldn’t find a contect address and so am using this photograph without permission…
If anybody has a better photograph or knows more about the history of the place, I’ll be very grateful!
Perlová Ulice 8 - Update
Well it seems I had the answer to my question amongst my photographs. As can be seen in this image, N° 8 Perlová Ulice was a retail outlet for the brewery museum. A beer shop! I wonder why I never read the sign?
Perlová ulice 2006
Photograph © Copyright 2006 Eva Haunerová
I should thank Eva for this photo - it shows the East side of Perlová ulice looking, perhaps, from a point very near to My House. The view hasn’t changed too much in the past 15 years - the changes aren’t so striking as they are in other areas of the historical centre.
Looking at this photograph, I can imagine strolling along Perlová ulice, making my way towards the brewery museum… I do wish somebody would renovate the tea emporium though - and remove those yellow and green signs! I wonder who owns it… surely they should be persuaded to sell?
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